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Forum Registration has been disabled due to spamming the board. Previously registered users have been saved and information is safe and secure. We left the forums open to browse but have deleted many of the posts that had been compromised. We will post new tech information here in the future but if you have a question or need service please use our
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Motorcycle Winterizing Tips
Motorcycle Winterizing Tips
The days are short and the nights are long and chances are unless you plan to do the Polar Bear Grand Tour you're going to be storing your motorcycle for the winter. Before you put your bike away for the next few months, it is very important to take some time to do some preventive maintenance. Assuming you have been keeping up with your regular maintenance, here are a few simple tips that will ensure that your motorcycle will be ready in spring and could save you costly repairs.
You should first take your motorcycle out for one last ride. Ride long enough to ensure that the bike is at full operating temperature. This will take some time if it is a cold day. Don't just let it sit and idle, ride it for at least 20 minutes to a half-hour. Pay attention to noises or other issues you may have been ignoring, and make note of them. Any mechanical problems you have should be addressed now, NOT in the spring! Before returning home or to your storage location, FILL THE GAS TANK. Empty fuel tanks are susceptible to condensation and the bare metal inside the tank can rust.
When you return to your garage and are ready to begin the storage procedure, top the gas tank with fuel stabilizer and run the motorcycle for a few minutes to allow it to work its way throughout the fuel system. If your bike has a manual fuel valve, shut it off and run the bike until it runs out of gas. If you have a carbureted bike and you can drain the carburetor fuel bowls, go for it. With the addition of ethanol to the gas these days I have seen a lot more problems arise from fuel evaporating inside the crabs. (They don't taste very good, either.)
Change the oil and filter. Old oil can contain contaminants that can damage sensitive internal engine components over time. For some models (metric) you may consider over-filling the crankcase to submerge additional components inside the motor, but be sure not to forget to remove excess oil before you start the bike again in spring. You should check antifreeze level in the reservoir, and top off if necessary.
Don't store a dirty motorcycle! Road grime, dust, oil and salt can cause damage to the bike's finishes and that damage only gets worse if it's left to sit for a period of time. By this time the bike should be cool, so you can wax the paint and use a substance like S100 Corrosion Protectant (incredible stuff) on the unpainted parts---but don't spray it on the brake rotors if you ever want to stop again. You can use it on fasteners, clamps, handlebars, forks, wheels etc. Again, be careful not to get it on the tires or brake components.
Don't forget to lube the drive chain, if you've got one.
If your motorcycle is to be stored outside or in a location without any heat at all you will want to remove the battery. Batteries can freeze in extreme cold. No matter where you store the bike or the battery, the use of a Battery Tender is highly recommended. Batteries are very expensive and a Battery Tender will keep the battery at an optimal charge without over charging. Just plug it in and walk away; no need to do anything else until you're ready to ride the bike again.DO NOT USE A CAR TRICKLE CHARGER this can destroy a battery in just a few hours.
If you are storing you motorcycle inside a garage or shed you may want to consider a light weight cover one that can breathe so condensation will not build up inside. Don't uses an outdoor cover inside, these tend to trap moisture. On the other hand if you must store your motorcycle outdoors get yourself a good quality motorcycle cover that will be secured tightly on the bike.
Be sure to check your tire air pressure. They should be inflated to or near the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tires. If possible, put your bike on its stand to keep weight off the tires and suspension. Do not allow your tires to go flat over the winter as this may cause permanent damage. if you are storing the bike for a very long period of time, move it occasionally or block it up off the ground.
Well, I hope you find these tips helpful. If you follow them chances are you are going to be back riding in just a few short months and your bike will be clean and in excellent condition. But if you don't want to do any of this it could be very costly in the spring, the average carburetor rebuild is well over $300.00 these days.
Well happy Hibernating! See You In The Spring.
Bikes Built Better Now Offers Winter Motorcycle Storage Click Here
You should first take your motorcycle out for one last ride. Ride long enough to ensure that the bike is at full operating temperature. This will take some time if it is a cold day. Don't just let it sit and idle, ride it for at least 20 minutes to a half-hour. Pay attention to noises or other issues you may have been ignoring, and make note of them. Any mechanical problems you have should be addressed now, NOT in the spring! Before returning home or to your storage location, FILL THE GAS TANK. Empty fuel tanks are susceptible to condensation and the bare metal inside the tank can rust.
When you return to your garage and are ready to begin the storage procedure, top the gas tank with fuel stabilizer and run the motorcycle for a few minutes to allow it to work its way throughout the fuel system. If your bike has a manual fuel valve, shut it off and run the bike until it runs out of gas. If you have a carbureted bike and you can drain the carburetor fuel bowls, go for it. With the addition of ethanol to the gas these days I have seen a lot more problems arise from fuel evaporating inside the crabs. (They don't taste very good, either.)
Change the oil and filter. Old oil can contain contaminants that can damage sensitive internal engine components over time. For some models (metric) you may consider over-filling the crankcase to submerge additional components inside the motor, but be sure not to forget to remove excess oil before you start the bike again in spring. You should check antifreeze level in the reservoir, and top off if necessary.
Don't store a dirty motorcycle! Road grime, dust, oil and salt can cause damage to the bike's finishes and that damage only gets worse if it's left to sit for a period of time. By this time the bike should be cool, so you can wax the paint and use a substance like S100 Corrosion Protectant (incredible stuff) on the unpainted parts---but don't spray it on the brake rotors if you ever want to stop again. You can use it on fasteners, clamps, handlebars, forks, wheels etc. Again, be careful not to get it on the tires or brake components.
Don't forget to lube the drive chain, if you've got one.
If your motorcycle is to be stored outside or in a location without any heat at all you will want to remove the battery. Batteries can freeze in extreme cold. No matter where you store the bike or the battery, the use of a Battery Tender is highly recommended. Batteries are very expensive and a Battery Tender will keep the battery at an optimal charge without over charging. Just plug it in and walk away; no need to do anything else until you're ready to ride the bike again.DO NOT USE A CAR TRICKLE CHARGER this can destroy a battery in just a few hours.
If you are storing you motorcycle inside a garage or shed you may want to consider a light weight cover one that can breathe so condensation will not build up inside. Don't uses an outdoor cover inside, these tend to trap moisture. On the other hand if you must store your motorcycle outdoors get yourself a good quality motorcycle cover that will be secured tightly on the bike.
Be sure to check your tire air pressure. They should be inflated to or near the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tires. If possible, put your bike on its stand to keep weight off the tires and suspension. Do not allow your tires to go flat over the winter as this may cause permanent damage. if you are storing the bike for a very long period of time, move it occasionally or block it up off the ground.
Well, I hope you find these tips helpful. If you follow them chances are you are going to be back riding in just a few short months and your bike will be clean and in excellent condition. But if you don't want to do any of this it could be very costly in the spring, the average carburetor rebuild is well over $300.00 these days.
Well happy Hibernating! See You In The Spring.
Bikes Built Better Now Offers Winter Motorcycle Storage Click Here
Chuck
Live every day like its your last and one day it will be!
Live every day like its your last and one day it will be!
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1100yamaha
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:43 am
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Re: Motorcycle Winterizing Tips
If you want to keep your battery good, place it on top of a chunk of wood instead of directly on the floor. This keeps the elements from destroying your battery. I usually place my bike's battery in my furnace room with my riding lawnmower battery on top of a 2x6. I never bother with the trickle charger, I just top the battery off the night before my first spring ride and I have never had a problem.
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Steffridesabuell
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 10:29 am
- Contact:
Re: Motorcycle Winterizing Tips
It's not a bad idea to take the battery out of the bike and keep it in a warm place if you don't have electricity where you park the motorcycle. But you should still keep the battery on a Battery Tender! Motorcycle batteries will discharge over time even if they're not in the motorcycle, and they are not deep cycle batteries, so allowing them to discharge is not a good thing for them. Keeping the battery on a chuck of wood (or even cardboard) is one of those old theories that may or may not be true. The idea was to keep the battery from discharging into the ground, not to prevent "the elements" from destroying the battery.
If you have gotten away without charging your battery over the winter, you have been fortunate. But will your battery last (and still be strong) for over seven years, like the one I have kept in the bike, in my chilly garage, hooked up to my Battery Tender???
If you have gotten away without charging your battery over the winter, you have been fortunate. But will your battery last (and still be strong) for over seven years, like the one I have kept in the bike, in my chilly garage, hooked up to my Battery Tender???